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| Cruising | ||||||||
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Nunavut
is awesome,
The logistics were astonishing when we first considered visiting Nunavut, Canada's newest territory. How could we tour a remote Arctic wilderness that spans 60 percent of the vast Northwest Territories? Driving wasn't possible because Nunavut only possesses twenty-one kilometers of highway. Flying was an alternative, but flights were expensive and weather-dependent. And there were few hotels, which were costly to boot because supplies had to be shipped in by air or sea lifts during the summer thaw. When we heard that Marine Expeditions, a Canadian cruise company, offered summer cruises through the Northwest Passage and from Churchill, Manitoba to Greenland, our interest peaked. Both routes include various ports-of-call and islands in Nunavut. Prices were reasonable, beginning at US $2345 for a 13-day trip from Churchill to Greenland, including air from Ottawa, transfers, meals and guided shore excursions.
Our first discovery aboard the Marine Discovery was that this was not going to be a typical Caribbean or Alaska cruise. There was no Las Vegas-style show. No casino. No midnight buffet. No formal night or dance band. Dress was casual. The cabins were clean, comfortable and basic. For buffets and served meals, we'd be sitting at long tables, mingling with other passengers. All in all, the ship served us well. While the food was not gourmet - we were hardly roughing it by culinary standards. The three daily meals and mid-afternoon snacks were tasty, plentiful and nutritious. Typical dinners consisted of seafood chowder, with a choice of rack of lamb, broiled trout, or a vegetarian curry with roasted cashews, and fresh fruit or raspberry cheesecake desserts. The well-traveled passengers, who hailed from diverse backgrounds in Canada, USA, England, Israel, Germany and Australia, enjoyed interesting discussions in the lounges and at dinner. We met enthusiastic seniors, including John Stewart, 67, from Victoria BC, who was on his second Marine Expeditions cruise to Nunavut. "They bring me to places I can't go to by myself," he said. "My biggest thrill was traversing the Northwest Passage, on my last cruise. You don't have to be super-fit, but you should be agile enough to climb down a gangplank into a bobbing Zodiac." One of the most active people on our cruise was a 75-year-old lady who walked with a cane and carried her camera, binoculars, bird and flower identification books in a backpack. She had no troubles on shore excursions, since some catered to light activities as well as energetic hikes and climbs.
With Nunavut's Arctic exposure, it's possible to encounter natural risks. John Stewart told us about the time the ship became stuck in pack ice, requiring rescue by icebreaker. Safety is number one priority. There's a doctor onboard for emergencies. And there are mandatory lifeboat drills to orient passengers to the fully-enclosed lifeboats, which are equipped with water, food, medical supplies and signal beacons. Before each shore excursion, we were given detailed briefings about the weather, terrain and wildlife. Polar bears are taken very seriously. Gun-toting scouts ensure the areas are free of bears before passengers begin exploring. If a bear appears, the staff evacuates everyone. Such risks enhanced the spirit of adventure, though. We found that weather and ice can spontaneously change a port-of-call. "I like to be surprised by where I'm going and what I'm going to do," said one passenger. "If people aren't flexible, they shouldn't come here." In fact, many of the ship's most delightful stops occurred serendipitously, after the expedition leaders and ship officers studied charts for suitable destinations with good landing areas. On our cruise, this gave us a chance to visit Daniel Island, a wildflower haven in Frobisher Bay. The ship's bridge - open to passengers 24 hours a day - allowed us to examine the charts and radar screen, and chat with the officers while enjoying the panoramic views. One of the joys of expedition cruising is the opportunity to learn. On our cruise, lecturers presented slide shows and talks on Arctic birds, walruses, expedition photography, the history of the Northwest Passage and the survival strategies of Arctic plants. Each evening there was a video about local culture or wildlife. One day, we had a workshop on writing the Inuit language. Another day, after hiking on Daniel Island, we joined a naturalist in the library who plowed through a stack of guidebooks to help us identify wildflowers that we had photographed. Each day, the expedition leaders plotted the ship's course on a large map in the lobby. They posted itineraries, bird sightings, National Geographic stories and pertinent clippings from the local newspapers on the bulletin board.
Whenever someone announced "icebergs on port side" or "seals at 10 o'clock" there was a frenzied scramble back to the cabins for cameras and binoculars. We soon learned to keep both handy at all times. How do you prepare for a cruise through Nunavut? Do your homework. Check out Marine Expeditions' suggested book list and read regional guidebooks for details on Nunavut's flora, fauna, culture and history. The shore excursions proved to be excellent learning experiences. Accompanied by naturalists, we discovered awesome scenery, abandoned Hudson Bay posts and cemeteries, ancient Inuit subterranean homes, herds of caribou, pods of beluga whales, enormous bird colonies, delicate wildflowers and friendly Inuit people who showed us their traditional carvings and games. "I was always the last one back on the boat after a shore excursion," said Vivian Tanasichuk, an enthusiastic 69-year-old from Lamont, Alberta. "You haven't seen Canada until you've seen Nunavut." Details for cruising through Nunavut: Barb and Ron Kroll recently contributed to National Geographic’s new Guide to Family Adventure Vacations.
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